By Ryan at 04:08 PM (PDT) on May 4, 2005
This will probably be the last post for a week or so because we are all going down to base camp to rest and there may not be access to Email there. So here is all the latest. You Americans will have to translate meters to feed yourself.
The four of us (Ambrose, Ryan, Scott, Michael) went on our last acclimatization trip on the 1st. From ABC to the North Col (7,000 meters)it takes about 4 to 6 hours depending on how adjusted you are to the altitude. It’s pretty interesting climbing, up fixed ropes all the way. There are sections of almost vertical ice, and there are sections of just walking. The Sherpas have placed two ladders over crevasses that make some pretty exciting crossings, but nothing like the photos I’ve seen of the south side Khumbu icefall.
The two nights we spent at the Col were actually pretty comfortable. Our tents are behind a huge bergschrund that blocks the crazy wind that seems to never cease. It’s fun to watch the fast gusts swirl over our heads and create wind devils across the tent city — and miss our tents completely! Also, because we are in control of our food, I actually enjoy the break from the awful food at ABC. Freeze dried dinners can be quite a step above the spam and overcooked canned vegetables we get at ABC.
On the second day at the Col, we all geared up and went for our personal altitude records. It was a very windy day. One Sherpa was yelling over and over “Many Windy, Many Windy at 7.5 Camp! Many Windy at 7.9 Camp!” We took advantage of the conditions to test our high altitude gear. So, we put on our down suits for the first time, big boots, face masks, goggles, and high altitude mitts and headed into the wind. The views were amazing! Once out of the protection of the ‘schrund, the Tibetan Himalaya unfolded before us! For the first time, the altitude and the sweeping views became a reality. Cho-Oyu, Pumori, and Shishapangma were sticking up through the clouds, and all the other peaks were now below us. It was some of the most spectacular climbing I’ve ever done. The climbing itself was not that difficult, except the altitude. Our ascenders were attached to fixed ropes, which currently go all the way to the 8,300-meter camp. It was actually pretty monotonous, just a long snow slope. It was when I experienced real altitude. It is pretty difficult just getting to the Col, but this was really amazingly difficult. At first, I was doing about 4 steps then 8 breaths and that changed all the time until I doing 1 step for 4 breaths. It seemed I would never recover and that I was barely moving! After about 6 hours, I finally crested to the 7,500-foot camp! This altitude is over 10,000 feet above Mt.Rainier! The relentless strong winds made it feel like I was entering into the jet stream.
Scott was feeling pretty good for he made camp 2 a week before, decided to quit while he was ahead and turned around about halfway. Better to stay strong then push it too far. Ambrose wasn’t feeling that well and turned around after just an hour out of camp.
Michael, who is a little better acclimatized than I, went up for another hour to 7,700. It appears the climbing gets a little more interesting above camp 2. More rock scrambling than a long snow slog. He came down to me and took some pictures and started down the fixed ropes together. The weather turned pretty bad. The world to Michael and I was nothing but a complete whiteout, with visibility of about 200 feet. The winds were strong, and we were the only people on the route at this time. It was a little eerie, I’ve got to say. The world was nothing but wind and grey all around, and a single, 7-mil, blue rope leading into infinity. We just started rappelling, and the route seemed endless. We had no idea how far we had gone, or how far we had to go. The ropes just kept on coming, and we were thankful for them to keep us from walking off the edge of the world. Arriving at the camp was a welcome sight, with Da Ngima and Lhapka waiting with a hot cup of Tang.
The tents at the North Col get covered in frost but on the inside every morning! It’s pretty challenging to deal with. At least it’s so cold that things stay pretty dry. If you are not careful, in the morning your pee-bottle will be frozen. Must always remember to keep your pee bottle in your sleeping bag, along with your sunscreen, toothpaste, boot liners, and of course your hot water bottles. Ambrose measured 5 degrees F inside our tent at the Col.
Dorje, our favorite Sherpa cook, wants to say hello!!!
This morning, we got a radio call from Lhapka and Da Ngima. They have really been pushing it and yesterday were the fourth Sherpa team to reach the 8,300-meter camp. This was really good news to us because it means that they are stocking that camp with the summit equipment (like O2). It seems that the Sherpas finally hit their limit. We weren’t sure it was possible. They very smartly decided to come down today. Ambrose won points by meeting them at the bottom of the glacier with hot tea. The client, Sherpa relationship was reversed!
ATTENTION: a current weather report. Overcast, but very bright, snowing briskly. It’s weird but it happens. Snow appears out of clear skies here.
Word is, the Sherpas think 7,900 meters is alright, but 8,300 is pretty difficult! Those guys are running circles around us at altitude, and their strength has far surpassed our imagination. It almost makes a complete mockery out of our efforts. They are so much more accustomed to this environment. We have compared it to the Kenyans coming to the Olympics and winning the marathon by leaps and bounds ahead of the next competitor.
Da Ngima sat us down the first night we were all able to get to get together after Brook left and had a very important conversation. His quote was, “When On Mountain, No Girlfriend Thinking. Must Focus Only Mountain.” This must become our motto and our mantra for the rest of the expedition.
So, our current plan is to head down to base camp for about a week–our acclimatization trips are done. The plan is to recover low, then do the grueling 13-mile hike (once again) back to ABC. We need to be on weather standby at ABC by about the 12th for our summit attempt. We will keep the blog up to date when the interesting events start to unfold. Undoubtedly, much will happen when the 26 teams all take advantage of any weather windows at the same time.
We are looking our finest, and our odors are at their ripest for we have been camping for over 5 weeks now. The voluminous garlic we have been fed really making its way into the atmosphere. Shaving does not happen nor does the shower. At least many things taste like hand sanitizer and there are many disposed of wet-wipes in the pit toilet. This is a site you all are certainly missing!
We used to have many thoughts of home and each and every one of you. You are all missed very much and we love all of you. But now after our conversation with Da Ngima, we think of Mountain Only.
— Ryan, Ambrose, Michael, Scott
P.S. If you really want to know what it’s like here on Mt. Everest, I recommend reading the very short book “The Ascent of Rum Doodle” by W.E.Bowman. I doubt there is a more accurate account of an expedition anywhere out there.