by Ryan at 09:35 PM (PDT) on May 17, 2005
News: we are going to go up today, trying to take advantage of a poorly defined weather window shown on Explorersweb.com. There is great controversy that our paid weather reports are reporting much stronger winds, but they agree on all other aspects — including i.e. -28 degrees temperatures on the summit. This may be our last opportunity before we have to vacate ABC and leave China before our permit runs out, but we’re hoping there still may be another weather window around the 25th through 28th. However, we’re going up now to put ourselves in position because it seems that all our weather reports agree, a second hit of the jet stream after the 22nd and no sign of the monsoon and very little chance of weather window before the first of June.
Anyhow, after long debates, we have decided to see how high we can get, leaving in a few hours. Here is our potential schedule:
18th climb to North Col
19th move to 7,900 meters camp, perhaps starting on O2, definitely sleeping on O2
20th move to 8,300 camp on O2. Stopping for a short rest for melting ice for water.
21st summit bid — leaving camp at midnight, maybe 10 PM for a summit bid. Turn around, to make AT LEAST 7,900-meter camp that same day.
22nd back to the north col, possibly, hopefully, all the way to ABC
With the uncertain weather and very cold temperatures, we think the North Col could be as high as we get this time and we want to leave open the possibility to make another attempt. We will see…
So, folks at home, this could be it! It’s your support that will help power us up this thing! Please wear your t-shirts for us! Everything helps! We will be in contact with Al by radio in ABC, and he will also be downloading your Emails. Hopefully, you will get frequent updates!
Hope to hear from you soon!
— Ryan, Ambrose, Michael, Scott, Da’Ngima and Lhapka and of course, AL